AKBARI GATE - The abandoned grandeur

Going on the circular road if you take a turn towards the Masti Gate and approach the Rim Market, just on the opposite side you will see a massive gate of the Lahore Fort, the Akbari Gate. This is the royal gate on the eastern side of the Lahore Fort which was built during the period of the third Mughal Emperor Akbar the Great.

The gate was once the main entrance to the Lahore Fort but regrettably the main entrance has been changed now. The grandness of the gate echoes the majesty inside it. It is a huge structure of bricks and two storeys. There are rooms inside the gate which must have been used by the watch guards and other soldiers. The gate is elevated from the ground level and an elephant can cross its wide wooden door. The gate and its ioor is well intact till now but is not used by the public anymore.

As we enter the giant gate, we see the Deewan-e-Aam and backside of Jahangir’s Quadrangle. The gate is a little messed up because of a colony built inside Fort near the gate. Like typical village and casual mohallahs we see clothes hanged on the grill, graffiti on the exterior and interior walls, garbage baskets and continuous crossing of motor bikes. Children are found playing and littering around the gate, which is not at all an endearing or a pleasant site entering the opulence of Lahore Fort.

Inquiring about the community residing there I was informed by the Fort management that they have been settled there since ages, and some of them are the employees of the Archeology department. The amazing part is that the residents of the quarters in the colony have rented out theirs quarters to other people. This could be a threat to the world heritage site as well as a security concern in present circumstances, but this is to be checked by the government, I can only inform by writing.

Coming back to Akbari gate, it is a dull part of the Lahore fort now. Once upon a time, I can imagine, it must have been the hub of all the hustle and bustle, the entourages of the Kings and Queens. Today, it is the most ignored part of the magnificent Lahore Fort. Wild plantation and overgrowth has no doubt overshadowed the grace of the splendor. The staircase leading to the roof top is locked.

The Empress of Akbar built a mosque Begum Shahi Mosque outside this gate in 1614 A.D that still exists. The Mosque is also encroached upon by the Rim market and only domes can be seen. I hope I draw the attention of the authorities to this as well.

The Akbari Gate has a basement too. I got to know this recently. There is a small window like access to the basement as it is all hidden in feral plantation. The management assumes that there must be snakes and reptiles in the basement and proper precautionary measures have to be taken for going in there and cleaning up the place.

This place can be developed into a picnic area for the tourists if cleaned up so that visitors cherish it. The basement and the upper portions can be opened up for the tourists on a small ticket if the authorities want. It is only a matter of will and desire, nothing beyond that. All over the world the basements and tunnels are keenly conserved and transformed into tourist sites, this is a sustainable model for any monument. Our dilemma is that we close our heritage for people and this is more cancerous. If we keep a monument or a place in use, it might sustain more than being closed. I hope somebody will pay heed to what I am writing, and I wish more voices to join me to save the heritage.

(The writer is a professional heritage photographer and can be reached at nadeemdarphotography@gmail.com)

Discovering Shahi Hammam

I got to know about Shahi Hammam just two years ago during a photo walk inside Delhi Gate, and I am sure most of us are still unaware of this unique piece of heritage in Lahore.

Pass through the Delhi Gate, with its historic arches and turn left, a narrow gate leads you to the back entrance of the spectacular Shahi Hammam. Entering the hall, one is astounded by the galore of the ages old building, still intact. The colors of painted fresco welcomes you to the royalty of Mughal era, which is eye catching for a photographer and anybody. The engraved plaque states, “Shahi Hammam was originally built around 1634 AD by Hakim Ilmuddin Ansari, the Governor of Lahore during the reign of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (r. 1628-58 AD). It was designed as a public bath for the travelers as well as the inhabitants of the city. Hakim Ilmuddin Ansari, who was granted the title of Wazir Khan, was also responsible for the construction of the famous mosque The Wazir Khan Mosque inside the Walled City which now bears his name. Shahi Hammam is the only monumental public bath from Mughal era which still survives in the entire South Asian subcontinent. In 1955, Shahi Hammam, was recognized as a cultural asset and declared a protected monument by the Department of Archaeology.”

The light rays pouring out of the small windows in the ceiling lit up the place giving it a dramatic and a startling look. A single storey building covering an area of over 1000 square meters is the Shahi Hammam which consisted of hot, warm and cool plunges, sweat rooms and related facilities.  The Shahi Hammam is a collection of 21 inter-connected rooms offering all the facilities or hot and cold bath. This is no doubt a facility which we know today as spa or steam bath. That was the brain and skill of the Mughal Emperors and builders.

Hammams were introduced in the sub-continent by the Mughals. The Shahi Hammam is one of the rare examples of this building type which is still prevalent today. The building is a magnificent example of the Shahjahani architecture, a mixture of Persian and Turkish design. According to some historical accounts, the Hammam was used extensively by the public during Mughal times and was reserved for the exclusive use of women on a specific day of the week. Although remains found in the Lahore Fort, the Shalimar Gardens, Wah Gardens and some of the larger Havelis in the Walled city indicate that smaller, private baths may have been popular during the Mughal and Sikh eras.

In my recent trip to the Shahi Hammam, I was stunned at the rapid changes. The last time I visited the place, it was encroached upon by several shops, which were nowhere to be seen now. The Hammam was covered with a green sheet and scaffolding as if some construction was going on. Entering the Hammam, I saw the interior of the Hammam being excavated and conserved by the Walled City of Lahore Authority and Aga Khan Trust for Culture with the funding of Royal Norwegian Embassy. Strands and wooden poles marked the excavated area, to protect people from falling over. The old marble floor was hollowed out and small pillar like structures were exposed in the entire Hammam. This was a mind-blowing site, and one could never imagine the marks underneath the marble flooring. This was the undiscovered heating system of the old times, the small pillars and entrances into a main pool. The local labour at work told me that this unique system was discovered for the first time in Pakistan. They said that the wood logs were used to heat the water and convert it to steam which then passed through the pillars or channels and heated up the entire place. The heating system was destroyed during the Sikh rule. And during the British era, the building was converted to a living quarter. This eventually ruined the Hammam. In later period after partition the Hammam served as a dispensary and girls school. 

I met a young friendly guy, the in charge of conservation project, who told me that the primary objectives for conservation were to re-establish the conserved monument as witness to a tradition of the bath house as a space of social interaction of the times before the decline of Mughal rule in the Sub-continent. I was happy to know that upon conserving and presenting the original bath structures, pools and cisterns, the various rooms and spaces of the bath houses will be either part of a display, or be integrated into the re-use function, galleries and congregational areas for holding talks, mushairas or traditional story telling activities. Support activities and spaces like public toilets and related visitors’ facilities, souvenir shops and a kitchen to serve an outdoor restaurant will also be developed in the open area adjacent to the Hammam on its eastern and southern sides. I was told that the project would be completed by the mid of this year. The monument will be like a jewel in crown of Lahore and, after complete excavation, restoration and conservation it can be the most visited tourist attraction.

(The writer is a professional heritage photographer and can be reached at nadeemdarphotography@gmail.com)

JAHANGIR’S QUADRANGLE THROUGH CENTURIES!

I was glad to see some good changes in the Lahore Fort as I entered the Jahangir’s Quadrangle, which is the backside of Deewan-e-Aam. The running fountains, lush green lawns with seasonal flowers and new info graphs explaining the location caught my sight at once. This was a transformation and at last, there was some color filled into the brown tones of Lahore Fort!

Jahangir’s Quadrangle consists of many structures like Bari Khawabgah (sleeping chamber), Seh Dari building with three openings), Harem (guest houses), Dalaan  and fountain areas. As per historic accounts the construction of this portion began during Emperor Akbar’s rule and was completed by Emperor Jahangir in 1617-18 A. D. at a cost of seven lac rupees. Historians claim that the sand-stone work depicting animal heads are the work of Akbar which echo his policy of tolerance for other religions especially Hinduism.

On the east and the west, the Quadrangle is surrounded by a row of dalans (doorways). The front of 'dalans' in red sand stone with richly carved columns and elaborate brackets in animal form is an exceptional paradigm of carved and sculptured stone work. There is a large garden inside the Quadrangle with a massive tank in the centre. The middle of the tank is occupied by a square marble platform called 'mahatabi' containing a shallow basin, with marble fountains. The numerous fountains playing in the tank greatly enliven the atmosphere of the quadrangle. These fountains were dead since long and this time the running system amused me. I could visualize the splendor of the original times with kings and queens roaming around and enjoying the fountains and ambiance.

The Lahore Fort underwent several changes in different rules. It was at its zenith during the Mughal rule but the following eras did not do much good to it. Talking about this quadrangle, during Sikh period the Bari Khawabgah area was used as Ranjit Singh's harem. The haveli of Kharak Singh was added in this Quadrangle. We also see the entrance to the Sikh Museum which is Princess Bamba’s collection from there.

During the British period, the garden in the Quadrangle was turned into a badminton court after filling up the tank and fountains. The sleeping chamber of Jahangir was used as arms store. A hospital and dispensary was established by the army in the Quadrangle. Each of the adjoining Dalans were converted into single residential units, for the military officers. The garden was totally destroyed and became non-existent and the area in front of the Dalans originally designed and built as lawns was also converted into Badminton Courts. The both Seh Dari were also damaged and later one of it was completely destroyed.

Someone heard the moaning quadrangle, and after 1903 steps were taken to restore it. Some of the front dalans of Bari Khawabgah were re-roofed and due to some cracks in the arches a verandah was built in the front. Since the place was proposed for the conversion into armory, some designed wooden doors were also fitted. The subterranean rooms adjoining this Bari Khawabgah were also cleared of dirt and mud to the original floor level in 1914-15 by the Archaeology Department during British Period. During the same time the old foundation of the water tanks, mahatabi and paths along with fountains were also excavated and restored. The fountains, the tank and mahatabi which we now see existing in the centre of this Quadrangle is entirely new work which may better be termed as restoration by the British Archaeology Department.

After partition, some Lahoris led by Makki Brothers used to organize a 'sound and light show' only on Independence Day. At one stage there used to be deer and peacocks in the garden.  This Quadrangle was also used for the VIP dinners and the musicians played instrumental music there. I wish this could also be revived.  Now, some rooms in the dalans are used as offices, stores, library, toilets and laboratory of the archaeology Department. One portion under the Haveli of Kharak Singh is also being used as the offices of Walled City of Lahore Authority. The Bari Khawabgah at present is serving as the Mughal museum, but does not meet the standards of an international museum. The Museum is low lit and dull even during the day. There should be a separate ticket for the museum with which it can be maintained and yes lighting should be improved immediately. Maybe the conservation of the Seh Dari is to be started soon as the documentation was being done when I was visiting the site.

I wish this entire place becomes a reflection the Mughal era. I suggest the authorities to have peacocks there with some other birds. The entire place should also be lit up and opened for night tourism, I am sure it will be a mind blowing experience. The dalans should be made as exhibition center or technical classes like painting and photography should be allowed in there. The best way to keep a place alive is to use it than to close it for public. At present the guest houses and parts of dalans are closed for public which do not give a pleasing feel. I hope I see these changes in my lifetime.

(The writer is a professional heritage photographer and can be reached at nadeemdarphotography@gmail.com)

Mochi Gate Lahore

Digging out stories of the walled city of Lahore is a never ending task. Each brick, nook and corner of the Walled City holds the letterings of past glories and tales. So is this another gate, the Mochi Darwaza (Gate). Located in south of the Walled City of Lahore, Mochi gate is another noteworthy speck of the Mughal Empire. It is one of the thirteen gates of the Walled City of Lahore or “Androon Lahore”. These gates were built during the reign of the Mughal Emperor Akbar along with a thirty feet high fortified wall for guarding the city. With the passing chapters of time, several 

transformations took place in this city and the Gates too endured changes, especially in their names. Several traditions are coupled with the name of this very gate too. According to some historians the name of the gate is marred form of “Moti”. Pandit Moti Ram, a guard in the reign of Akbar used to watch over the gate and remained attached to his post till he breathed his last. For this reason the gate was named after him. However, some historians avow that “Mochi” is the marred form of Urdu word “Morchi” which means “Trench Soldier”. It is further supported by the fact that the different streets (Mohallahs) which still bear their old names like Mohalla Teer-garan (arrow craftsmen), Mohalla Kaman-garan (bow craftsmen). Even till today we find bazaars on the same names hence the second one makes more sense.

Like many other gates of the walled city, this gate was also completely pulled down during the British period but was never built again. The British established a garden beside the road which has been the scene of many historical meetings and processions held by different political parties and other groups. Now the marks of the gate are hard to locate because of changes in the land use and additions of structures and houses.

The Mochi Gate is between the Akbari Gate and the Shah Alam Gate. This location has affected the land use and most of the residential area has been taken away by the commercialization. While walking on the Mochi Gate trail we come across big markets like Bazaar Kamaan Garan, Dana Market, Baraa Market, Alamgir Market, and Itefaq Market which by design connects with the Shah Alam.

Mochi Gate has more of its association with the religious processions during the month of Moharram because of the two main Havelis namely Nisar and Mubarik Havelis and Mohallah Shian located there. The processions of Moharram gather in these Havelis. This is not all that Mochi gate has. The dried fruit markets, sweet shops, eatables and other houses append the splendor of this historical gate.

A few steps away from Mohallah Shian there is a “Khoya Bazaar” and the Mosque of “Mullah Muhammad Saleh Kamboh” who was a teacher of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. This Mosque was once as stunning as Wazir Khan Mosque but due to negligence and lack of maintenance, it has lost its grandeur. However, few remains of the fresco are still visible on its outer walls and inner chambers. This is a must see place in this Gate.

Another Mosque worth mentioning is the Mosque of Mullah Majeed near Nisar Haveli inside Mohallah Chehal Bibian. Mullah Majeed was a foreign trader who often visited Lahore for business. Being religious and to invest his earnings in a noble cause he constructed this Mosque.

While walking inside the twisting streets we come across unique street names like Gali Bandooq  Sazan, Noor Gali, Koocha Kaman Garan, Gali Rani Gul begum, Koocha Chabak Sawaran which finally joins with Rang Mehal Chowk.

The Haveli of Mian Khan is also located inside the Mochi gate and can also be accessed from Shah Almi Gate. This massive Haveli was built in Emperor Shah Jahan`s reign by his Prime Minister Nawab Saadullah Khan. It was completed during the reign of Emperor Aurangzeb by the Nawab`s son, Mian Khan, who was the then Governor of Lahore. When the British took over Lahore in 1849, they converted Rang Mahal into a Mission School. Till date, the building is in use of the school.

While traversing in the narrow snaking streets of the Mochi Gate, you cannot escape the aroma of “Das Kulcha with Lonchara” which is the mouthwatering breakfast and also a delicacy of the gate since decades. This gate is also known for meat kebabs and other dishes. We also find the famous Fazal Sweets shop here, the owner of which had migrated from Kashmir to Lahore in 1933 seeking for a better future for himself. He was utterly skilled in the art of sweet making. He won the hearts of the Lahoris with his specialty “Paithay ka halwa” which he introduced in Lahore for the first time. Initially he opened his shop twice a week and the people eagerly waited for it.

Beside these shops, there is “Muhallah Sadakaraan” where one of the great classical singers of the subcontinent “Ustad Chotay Ghulam Ali Khan” lived. It is unfortunate that most of the people have no idea about him and his art and it is a forgotten chapter of history.

The value of these places need to be communicated to the youngsters so that they cherish the relics of their forefathers and take a pride in it. We spend holidays in different parts of the world ignoring our own heritage and city. I suggest plan a trip to walled city this time and you will be lost in a world of wonders forever.

(The writer is a media professional and can be reached at taniaq29@gmail.com)